How to Print ABS Without Warping
The enclosure is the biggest factor
ABS shrinks as it cools. Without an enclosure, the print cools unevenly from the bottom up while the top is still hot. The temperature gradient creates internal stress that pulls corners up and splits layers. An enclosure holds chamber temp at 40 to 55 C, keeping the print uniformly warm during printing.
DIY enclosures work
- IKEA Lack table + acrylic panels is the classic budget enclosure
- Grow tents are cheap and work surprisingly well
- Even a cardboard box over the printer is better than nothing
- Commercial enclosures are nicer but the cardboard box is 90 percent of the way there
Bed preparation
- ABS slurry (dissolve ABS scraps in acetone, brush onto bed): the strongest hold
- Glue stick on glass: easy and effective
- Glue stick on PEI: works well, scrapes off cleanly
- Bed temp 100 to 110 C, not 95
Slicer settings
- Nozzle 240 to 260 C
- Layer fan: 0 to 20 percent (off for the first 30 layers, then optional minimal)
- Brim 8 to 12 mm wide on any large or tall print
- Mouse ears (small disks at corners) for very thin tall geometry
- Slow first layer 20 mm/s, 0.2 mm height
Trouble points
- Print failing 3 to 5 hours in: enclosure not retaining heat well enough
- Corners curling on layer 30: bed too cold or surface not sticky enough
- Layer split mid-print: layer fan too high or chamber too cool
- Smell during print: normal for ABS; ventilate the room, not the enclosure
Browse the range
All ABS. For outdoor parts, ASA is the better choice (same print settings).