How to Print Nylon: Dry, Slow, Enclosed
Drying is non-negotiable
A nylon spool left out for 24 hours absorbs enough moisture to print badly. Always dry before printing: 80 C for 8 to 12 hours in a filament dryer or oven. Print directly from the dryer if possible. Even between print sessions, store nylon in a sealed dry box with bulk silica.
Enclosure
Nylon shrinks unevenly during cooling without an enclosure, especially on prints over 100 mm. The enclosure does not need to be heated, just sealed. A passive cardboard or acrylic box that traps the bed heat is usually enough.
Bed adhesion
- Glue stick on glass: cheap and works
- Glue stick on PEI: same
- Garolite: the traditional nylon bed surface, holds without help, releases when cool
- Avoid bare PEI: nylon barely adheres at the right temp
Print settings
- Nozzle 240 to 270 C (check supplier for grade)
- Bed 70 to 110 C, glue or Garolite
- Layer fan 0 to 30 percent (off if you can, low if overhangs need it)
- Print speed 30 to 50 mm/s
- Hardened nozzle for filled grades (PA-CF, PA-GF)
PA-CF specifically
Carbon-filled nylon is stiffer and prints slightly easier than plain nylon. The fibres reduce shrink, which helps with warping. But the abrasive fibres chew through brass nozzles in hours; hardened steel or ruby is required.
Common failures
- Brittle print: filament was wet, dry harder next time
- Warping: enclosure not sealed or bed temp too low
- Layer separation: nozzle too cool or fan too high
- Stringing: filament wet (always the first guess for nylon)